Posting Comment for "Solderability of Enamelled Copper Wire"

*Author Name
Email Address
Website URL

About Posting a Comment

Comments are moderated before they will appear on the website, this is a manual process and may take some time. Please be patient.

Author Name is a required field.

Email Address is optional, but without one I won't be able to contact you back. It is never shown or linked on the website. You can always just email me if you'd rather not post a public comment. I generally reply in-line with a comment rather than email you back, unless I want to discuss something in private or off topic. Please check back to see when I reply.

Website URL is optional, if supplied the Author Name will be hyperlinked to this URL.

You may use wikitext in the body, preview may be handy here. Don't worry if you can't figure them out, just give me a hint what you want linked to what and I'll do it during moderation. Wikitext is not BBcode!

Spammers: Please don't bother wasting your time scripting up posts to this form. Everything is moderated, your post will never be seen on the web even transiently, there is no way to even view it by its internal ID, it will never be indexed. I will simply delete your post in the moderation interface. If I'm your target audience you're really on the wrong track; I'll never click on a URL in your garbage. The post content is not emailed to me (and I don't use a Win32 mail client anyway), I view the posts in plain text in the moderation interface so no clever tricks of any kind will make anything you type be interpreted by anything other than me, a human. Just give up and go elsewhere please!

3rd July 2011 18:14

Alan Yates wrote...


Cool, never heard of that. Will have to give it a try, thanks. Does it work for all kinds of varnish?



22nd May 2011 08:39

Dave wrote...

Aspirin can be used to remove the enamel from wire. Place the wire on the aspirin tablet and put the soldering iron on top. Provide some ventilation. I found this on an RC modelling site and it works well on Jaycar enamelled wire and Earbud speaker wire.

17th February 2009 05:42

Alan Yates wrote...


That's a great idea - using a shell casing!

Come to think of it I probably have a piece of brass tube the right size in that bulk pack from the hobby store... I have a high-wattage "basic" iron with a chunky tip I use infrequently for really heavy work, it should be OK as the heating source.

All the wires tested tinned *eventually* from cut ends at only 340 °C.



17th February 2009 03:44

Arv K7HKL wrote...

A related idea would be the use of a solder-pot to tin the end of these different wire types (re. earlier comments about homebrew solder pots).

It recently occurred to me that a brass pistol shell casing would make a very good solder pot (use one which has already been fired, please!).

My dollar-store 36 watt soldering iron uses a pointed 3/16 inch diameter brass rod for the tip. I pushed out the shell primer and drove that soldering iron tip into the primer hole. Then I bent the 3/16 inch brass rod tip to the proper angle to hold the new solder cup upright with the soldering iron held horizontal on the workbench and prevented from rolling by a large lever-type paper clip on the handle. That paper clip holds the soldering iron from rolling and also keeps the hot end far enough away from the worktop to prevent it from overheating the surface.

Now I have a 40 Caliber Smith & Wesson solder pot.